Building a guitar part one.
Bought the body and neck of ebay. Sanding and preping the body for painting.
Video shows sped up sanding, and preping. Also shows my final design idea. Part two to follow soon (that should be the painting and all that jazz)
Music by Anberlin - Adelaide (off the new album Cities)
Duration : 0:3:23
Building a guitar part three. Repainting, polishing, machine heads, bridge, wiring, finishing. The Gibson Les Paul electric guitar style instrument takes shape.
Duration : 0:5:23
Part 1 of 2 - John W. Nixon from Eagle Lake Woodworking demonstrates how to build an Arched-Top keepsake made from Cocobolo. This unique arched-top keepsake box is an eye catching item with a unique feature on the inside - a place to frame a picture. The process for making a dovetailed box is detailed in this video, as well as, the procedure for shaping the arched lid. This 15 minute video covers: * Resawing / Bookmatching. * Making a dovetailed box. * Shaping the arched top on the router table. * Installing a lid support hinge. * Tung oil finish. * Procedure for gluing cocobolo. Visit www.eagleLakeWoodworking.com to see the rest of the videos in this series, as well as videos on other woodworking topics. Eagle Lake Woodworking is the home of the world’s first foot-activated motorized router lift that makes router table mortising quick and easy.
Duration : 0:6:33
The standard dollhouse consists of bedrooms, living room, kitchen, bathroom, and usually an attic. These dollhouses often include the standard family with mom, dad, children, and even a dog. Most often, these homes are quite traditional Victorian homes, country cottages, or colonials. However, itâs interesting to know that there are some fun and different alternatives to the standard dollhouse.
There are many different types of miniature buildings that go beyond the standard house. A few examples of these are a barn, New England lighthouse, fire station, church, and country store. Each of these unique dollhouses opens up a lot of possibilities. Children have the ability to use their imagination in all different settings. Children and adults alike have the ability to grow their miniature collection with exciting and unusual structures.
The country store is a small dollhouse that can be used well as a display piece. It has true potential if decorated with care. The fire station is true to life and even includes the firemenâs pole. There is room for fire trucks as well as a bunk area for the firemen. The church has stained glass windows as well as an altar and pews. The barn includes areas for the animals as well as an amazing loft.
Each of these unique dollhouses, as well as traditional dollhouses is available as wood kits from Real Good Toys. This company is based in Vermont and showcases some of the traditional country structures of New England. Each design includes working parts, pre-cut pieces, and a complete set of instructions. This ensures that a model can be put together correctly and with ease. Some of these kits also include miniatures to start the interior design. These unique dollhouses are the perfect addition to any collection.
There is a wonderful sense of accomplishment to building a dollhouse from scratch. Each of these designs creates something very different. The lighthouse kit boasts electricity, bringing the finished version to life. The church includes a ringing church bell. Each design is true to its real life counterpart. These dollhouse models are perfect as a relaxing hobby or even as a bonding experience for siblings or parent and child.
There are endless possibilities when it comes to dollhouses. These 5 unique dollhouses are just the beginning. A true collector of dollhouses and miniatures should expand their collection to include some unique dollhouse designs. The barn, church, New England lighthouse, fire station and country store are just some of the potential additions to a great collection.
Veronica Scott
http://www.articlesbase.com/hobbies-articles/5-unique-wood-dollhouse-kits-140145.html
Bending wood is not the daunting task that it appears to be at first glance. Depending on the degree of bend, and whether or not the bend is compound, there are a couple of methods for bending wood.
First, you need to have a form to bend your wood around and clamp to to hold thedesired shape. Most bent wood will have a certain degree of âspringbackâ, so you must build your form with an allowance for this. And, unfortunately, there is no established formula for determining the degree of springback that a given species of wood will produce. Springback is also influenced by the bending method used. That is to say that steamed wood will spring,
or âunbendâ more than wood that is laminated and glued. Another variable is the type of glue used in laminating.
As a general rule, the tighter the bend, the more the wood will spring back, making the allowance a matter of trial and error at best.
As laminating thin strips is the easiest method, weâll begin with that process. The finished thickness of the project will have a direct bearing on the size of the strips to be used, but generally, the heaviest strip to use is about ¼â thick. Tight bends may have to be done with 1/8â strips or thinner, depending on the wood species. Sounds like a lot of experimenting, but Iâm afraid thatâs a necessary evil.
The form required for laminating can be as simple as a piece of pipe or as complex as a multi-station die. I like to keep things as simple as possible.
When laminating thin strips, you can minimize effort and spring back by soaking the strips before bending, and clamping them in the mold without gluing. Once they are dry, remove them from the mold, spread the glue and re-clamp them in the mold. Line the mold with waxed paper to prevent the lamination from sticking to the mold.
When I soak strips, I do so in an open container, and depending on the wood and the size of the strips, I soak them from 15 minutes to overnight. I also mix in a half cup of fabric softener per gallon of water. I find that it softens wood nearly as well as fabric.
If the project is small, and open time on the glue is not a factor, Iâll use poly-vinyl-acetate, or aliphatic resin glue. If I need more working time, Iâll use epoxy or resorcinol. I stay
away from the quick setting epoxies, however, because they rarely harden to the extent that the slow sets do. If youâre using light colored wood, resorcinol dries to a reddish color which might be objectionable on a finished project.
When bending thin woods such as guitar sides, the wood is commonly soaked as above, but it is bent over a hot bending jig, either electric, or heated with a propane torch. Brittle woods are supported on the outside of the bend with a thin stainless steel band to help prevent cracking.
Green woods can be bent much in the same way, or by heating the wood over hot coals or with a good heat gun.
For projects where lamination is objectionable, or when the wood is to be bent in compound curves, a steam box is the answer. One can be made fairly economically from PVC pipe, but it needs to be supported to keep the pipe from deforming.
The ends of the pipe need to be closed with a screw cap on at least one end, to allow access to the interior. Fit the other end of the pipe with a DWV reducing tee, and attach a radiator hose to the side outlet and to a new gas can large enough to hold sufficient water to last through the job. The water may be heated with a hot plate or a propane burner.
Drill through the pipe slightly below center in two or three locations and insert dowels for the wood to rest on. Steam must be allowed to circulate freely around the wood for even penetration. A hole about ½â in diameter should be drilled in the cap furthest from the steam
inlet to allow circulation. When you build the support frame for the steam box, pitch the box
toward the steam inlet to allow the condensation to return to the water supply.
Rule of thumb says that wood should be steamed fifteen minutes per inch of thickness, but here again, some experimenting will be necessary.
The wood needs to be placed into the form as quickly as possible, because as the wood cools, it is more difficult to bend. Make sure that your wood is at least two feet longer than the finished part, because itâs nearly impossible to bend a 3/4â piece of wood that is less than a foot long, so that last foot will have to be cut
off after the wood is dry.
Clamp the wood in the form securely, and leave it there until it is completely cool. If you are working with multiple pieces, place them in the steam box a approximately the interval required to place the piece in the form and clamp it, and remove them from the box in the same order.
With a little practice and a little luck, it shouldnât take long to become proficient in wood
bending. Good luck with your project, and if I can be of any help or answer any questions, feel
free to respond to this post, or email me at campbell5017@bellsouth.net .
To get the e-book âHow To Bend Woodâ as well as other e-books I have written on various aspects of woodworking, click here, or copy and paste this link into your browser.
http://tinyurl.com/3chxox
Grant Campbell
http://www.articlesbase.com/home-improvement-articles/how-to-bend-wood-119731.html
Chess is a very old game that pits two simulated “armies”, evenly matched, across a simple terrain. Each game is a fierce combat fought by foot soldiers, knights, kings, and queens. Although Chess does not deal with numbers and equations, it is like math in many ways. Playing chess has always involved problem-solving skills, which are imperative when working out math equations that have many steps. However, unlike math, the ultimate aim in a Chess game is to vanquish the opponent by “killing” the opposing King. Chess is one of the most popular board games in the world, and possibly the most time-consuming. Truly, life’s too short for chess, and because players spend hours staring at the Chess Board, it is small wonder they are willing to invest large sums of money for purchasing intricately carved, stylish wood chess sets.
Chess can be easily played anywhere. For just a few extra dollars, you can purchase beautiful wood chess sets that enhance your gaming experience. Many varieties of wood are used to make wood chess sets. The traditional or commonly used woods are Golden Rosewood and Boxwood. Some of the more exotic woods include Ebony, Red Sandalwood, and Rosewood. The riches of wood chess sets seem to be inexhaustible. Many chess aficionados prefer wood chess sets because of the elegant feel and natural look of the units. It is indeed astonishing that even after centuries of analysis, Chess poses us with ever new and ever more profound questions.
Although Chess is the fairest of games, the rules of chess do not keep score of accumulated interim results. A player can build up a sizeable advantage over his opponent and keep it during most stages of the contest. But a few seconds lack of attention can squander all his hard work. In chess no one counts advantages, only the ultimate result matters. There is a well-known saying among chess players: “You learn more from the games that you lose than from the games you win.” Of course, to learn from your lost games you must have the strength to face up to them rather than trying to forget that they ever happened.
Chess is so popular that there are actual chess tournements that happen all around the world. These tournements challenge even the best chess players. There is usually a monetary award given to the winners. These awards range from small financial rewards and go as high asa you can imagine.
Keith Londrie
http://www.articlesbase.com/art-and-entertainment-articles/custommade-wood-chess-sets-56910.html
Here’s a look at my very own custom guitar. It took me more than a year to build it, because of school and work.
The guitar is a Les Paul Double Cut with a fender style neck. It has 24 brass plated frets, shark fin inlay, Grover original machine head with a custom head stock with my logo. The wood used for the neck is hard rock maple with a african mahogany veneer. The fret board is also african rosewood; all of the neck is attached with a traditionnal fender plate with four screws. The body is a mix of hard rock maple and african mahogany, have 2 Gibson 57 Classic Plus Humbucker with a 3 way switch. I did a arm and back countour for a better feel. for the bridge i took a simple tone-o-matic bridge. For the finish i put a stain and 3 coats of a high gloss laquer.
The overall sound is great, it has a big variety of tones and a crap load of sustain; and it always stay intonaned. For my first built, I have to say that Im more that satisfy with the result, it plays better than my epiphone les paul studio that i bought!
I liked so much building my guitar that im now building a second one, im going all out with the wood, im going to put wenge, zebrawood, purpleheart, padouk and cocobolo. All ive done so far is the body.
Enjoy!!!
Song: Pearl Jam - Yellow Ledbetter
Duration : 0:3:34
