A quick lesson on home-sawn veneer
Duration : 0:14:34
Tags: art, blog, board, chopping, cutting, refinishing, veneer, video, wood, woodworking
A quick lesson on home-sawn veneer
Duration : 0:14:34
Tags: art, blog, board, chopping, cutting, refinishing, veneer, video, wood, woodworking
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
thanks for the info …
thanks for the info, the site im getting the info from says the veneer thickness ranges from (.058 / 1.47mm) to (.050 / 1.27mm) for the cross band.i would imagine these are factory produced and machined, probably too thin to do myself. ill keep watching your videos for more tips though.
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
It really depends …
It really depends on how well-tuned your drum sander is. I know guys who have it so well tuned that they pretty much make paper thin sheets of veneer just for fun. So You can pretty much go as thin as you dare.
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
how thin could you …
how thin could you go by this method?, how thin could you go with a thickness planer?. id like to make a skateboard and veneer seems hard to come by around here.
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
tight quarters are …
tight quarters are always ociated to woodworking shops for some reason. haha. its all about making things work. i have a electric hoist that my 4′x8′ veneer press is hung on and it hangs in the cieling above the table saw. iv seen some small shops that are just are amazingly orginized.
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
Yup just me. Oddly …
Yup just me. Oddly enough, I might be moving very soon and I will have to downsize the shop a bit. But I used to work in a small garage so I am no stranger to tight quarters, despite being spoiled for the past 4 years.
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
really its only you …
really its only you? I share a shop with a friend only a few hundred square feet. You are very fortunite to be able to work alone. your shop looks huge and from what i see in the videos you got really awesome tools. seams like a cool and creative place to work.
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
No argument here. …
No argument here. Just different ways of accomplishing a task. And I actually have a one-man shop. Its all me.
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
yes that would work …
yes that would work quite well as a floating panel. i dont want to arguee. its just interesting to see how every woodworker dose thing slightly different then the next. I studyed with Mark Paddison threw Humber College in Toronto. keep up the videos, i do like your design taste, how many people work in that shop?
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
I agree that 1/8″-3 …
I agree that 1/8″-3/16″ would give a pretty noticeable border. I suppose some might like it. But the veneer I am talking about in this video is bandsawn at about 1/8″ and sanded down to 3/32″. Thats starting to get thin enough that the endgrain becomes less and less of an issue.
But ultimately, to each his own. Many folks just trim out the veneered board after the veneering is done, which gives a noticeable border regardless of the veneer thickness. And same thing when making panels.
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
generally when i …
generally when i use veener i vacuume press it with a solids glued on the edge of my substraight that way my veneer covers both the substraight and the solid edging, leaving a clean edge. with 1/8″ or 3/16″ veneer the endgrain of the veneer is much more noticable. i guess that apeals to some to look good.
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
Generally anything …
Generally anything less than 1/8″ is considered veneer. Treating the end grain using home sawn veneer is no different than when you use any other veneer. You still need to cover up the ugly substrate. At around 3/32″, these thick veneers are quite stable even over wide surfaces. And I agree that you would want to veneer both sides to maintain equilibrium.
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
i dont consider …
i dont consider that a veneer. it is rather thick and what do you do with the end grain? (say on a table top) glued to a sub-straight it could be quite unstable and it is not economical givin that with that thickness of veneer. both sides of the sub-straight will be required to be veneered in order to maintain stability. thats my position. Mean whyle commercial veneers can often be quite thin.
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
Using this …
Using this veneering tech you could make two of any project out of the same amount of solid wood. That’s the point. Veneers in days really gone by were much thicker than the ‘toilet-tissue’ we get these days, so this is a way of making your timber go further, plus you can clean up with a plane afterwards. Try that with modern veneers.
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
Heck, with the time …
Heck, with the time you spent doing that, you might as well use solid wood.
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
no i mean u said …
no i mean u said veneer and plywood are 4 letter word or w.e i miss heard it im sorry.
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
Haha, not in my …
Haha, not in my world they aren’t.
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
lol (veneer and …
lol (veneer and ply-wood) are 4 words =) =D
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
Nice clear …
Nice clear instructions…Thanks….also nice Bandsaw!!!
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
the only thing that …
the only thing that paper thin veneer is good for is making fingerboards
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
Great Series !
Great Series !
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
good job
good job
June 3rd, 2009 at 7:33 pm
Thanks for posting …
Thanks for posting this video…it really helped in my graduate study project